Mustard: A Good Restaurant, Which Could Do With A Touch More Zing

Ever since the Romans introduced mustard to Britain via France, that piquant yellow condiment has been breathing life into our meat and potatoes. Mustard, then, is an apt name for the Franco-Anglo hybrid brasserie and its zingy exterior, which gleams like spring sunshine on Shepherd's Bush Road.

It's only right we start with one of the Mustard Gin Marys — laced, naturally, with a dollop of the yellow stuff. It works too: a right head/nasal passage clearer, and no mistake. Next time you're hanging in Shepherd's Bush, you know where to come.

But it's the roasts we're here for: we take the ribeye beef, while our French guest (we're fitting in with the restaurant's theme, OK) has the Norfolk chicken breast. Mustard, of course, comes as a standard side (swirled into creamy horseradish). It works with the beef (and to an extent, the extremely sweet and oniony gravy, that's more like French onion soup). As for horseradish with chicken? We're not so sure, although our friend seems to go for it, so what do we know.  

There's nothing we can put our finger on about Mustard's roasts that isn't good. The potatoes are crisp. The broccoli bears extra flavour from slight charring. But do these dishes have the pizzazz to match the deliciously upmarket branding of the Mustard bistro?

It prompts that question Londoners increasingly pose to one another on a Sunday afternoon: is a good roast dinner worth nigh-on £20? That's for you to decide.

Mustard, 98-100 Shepherd's Bush Road, Shepherd's Bush, W6 7PD