Zoe's Ghana Kitchen Is A Refreshing Taste Of The Unexpected

From a simple ‘peanut butter stew’ stall in the front garden to a series of pop-ups in London, Berlin and New York, Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen has expanded rapidly since its humble beginnings in 2010. And now, eight years down the line, it has seeded fresh roots in Hackney, with a new residency at the Institute of Light.

An eclectic mix of hard and soft seating, exposed pipes, a curved tin roof and a swanky bar create a dining space that exudes hipster comfort.

The menu is as varied as the decor: an array of exotic (at least to our eyes) snacks, side plates and dishes; everything from supermalt cassava crisps and kewele, to suya meatballs and koose fritters. Fortunately, our attentive waitress doubles up as a much-needed translator, and assists us with our order. We take her recommendations, ordering a combination of vegan, vegetarian and meat plates.

The food is served as and when it’s ready, though it’s not long before our table is a colourful, and bountiful, display of tantalising dishes.

We kick off with the okra fries, which resemble their potato-based sister purely in name and shape. The deep-fried plants are crispy on the outside, with a fleshy centre.

Next up, we try the grilled plantain. Unlike fried plantain, the fruit is light, not oily. The chilli flakes deliver a hit of heat, which is offset by the peanut butter dipping sauce (which we order separately).

The oto cakes are the next vegetarian plate. The thick, stodgy ‘cakes’ are reminiscent of hash browns, both in terms of taste and texture. Topped with a boiled organic egg, the plate could pass as a posh veggie fry-up.

Our final vegetarian-friendly plate is  the gari-coated (pickled vegetable) yam balls. The coating is neither sweet nor acidic, something you would typically expect from a pickled vegetable. Instead the flavour of the yam, which is to comparable to that of the oto cakes, dominates.

We move onto the meat plates, starting with the fried tilapia. Removing the meat from the sizeable fish head is an awkward but worthwhile challenge; the soft flesh is coated in a wonderfully crisp batter.

The organic free range chicken strips are the next dish to come under the knife. The meat is succulent and the shito mayo is addictive; we ask for the recipe. Unfortunately, the staff don’t divulge such secrets. We’ll have to come back.

Our final plate is the beef chichinga. Whereas the plantain serves a pleasant dose of heat, the beef chichinga delivers an altogether more violent hit. We like our spice, but this plate should come with a warning.

Unlike the dinner menu, the pudding menu is surprisingly limited. There is a choice of hibiscus sorbet or chilli ice cream; one is as unusual as the other. The sorbet has a sharp, quasi-medicinal taste. The chilli ice cream is rich and creamy, but packs a punch of heat. The dessert elicits unwonted pleasure; joy from the silky texture blended with shock from the heat. The urge to keep eating is oddly compelling.

While not every dish on the menu is not quite as irresistible, we are highly satisfied by our Ghanian gastronomical voyage.

Zoe's Ghana Kitchen, 376, 10 Helmsley Pl, London E8 3SB.